Côtes de Provence Rouge, Ultimate Provence 2022
James Suckling 90
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Why this wine
Provence sells so much rosé that its reds go unnoticed, which is why this one is good value. Syrah off a single plateau parcel gives it the pepper and dark fruit of the southern Rhône, while a spell in barrel and a short maceration keep the tannins soft enough to drink now. It is the Provence bottle for autumn rather than August.
At a glance
- Grape
- Syrah 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%
- Region
- Provence, France
- Alcohol
- 13.00%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- Medium
- Tannins
- Medium
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Short (3-5 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Red Meat, Barbecue, Cheese
How it tastes
Ripe black fruit on the nose, with black cherry and plum carrying through the palate and a lick of spice and black pepper behind. Smooth and supple, medium in weight, with soft tannins and gentle acidity rather than grip. Syrah 80%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%.
The producer
Ultimate Provence sits near St-Tropez in the heart of the largest nature reserve in France, an estate that puts a working vineyard alongside a modern winery and a lifestyle address, with Alexis Cornu as resident winemaker. The vines were first planted in the mid-20th century by the Perrono family and the property is now owned by Château de Berne; the shallow soils lie over an impervious sandstone slab, and the Syrah that dominates this blend comes from La Grande Pièce, a plateau parcel given over entirely to the variety. Grapes are harvested at night by machine and the rows are ploughed with horses. Fermentation ran between 20 and 26°C with regular pumping over to avoid over-extraction, maceration was held to no more than four weeks to soften the tannins, and part of the wine was aged in barrel for aromatic complexity. 2022 was extremely hot, with unprecedented heat and drought, so picking came early and the berries were small and concentrated but healthy.
Food and drinking
Serve at 16-18°C. It works with lamb chops, grilled sausages, a pork and herb terrine or hard sheep's cheese. Drink over the next three to five years; no decanting needed. Sealed with a Nomacorc closure. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans.