Rioja Alavesa Blanco, Phincas Thousand Mils, Bodegas Bhilar 2020
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Why this wine
The village white from Bhilar's biodynamic, horse-ploughed vineyards above Elvillar, made from old bush-vine Viura with a little Garnacha Blanca and Malvasía and given three years in barrel. Savoury and textured rather than fresh and simple, with the estate's characteristic salinity. The cheaper route into what this producer is doing.
At a glance
- Grape
- Viura 80%, Garnacha Blanca 10%, Malvasía 10%
- Region
- Rioja, Spain
- Alcohol
- 12.50%
- Body
- Medium
- Acidity
- High
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Drink
- Medium (5-10 yrs)
- Pairs with
- Poultry & Pork, Seafood, Cheese
How it tastes
Baked apple and chamomile with a delicate earthy touch. Fresh and saline, with leesy richness, orange marmalade and a lovely grip. Viura 80%, Garnacha Blanca 10%, Malvasía 10%.
The producer
David Sampedro and Melanie Hickman run Bhilar — the Basque name for their village, Elvillar in Rioja Alavesa — on land farmed organically for over twenty years and biodynamically for fifteen, Demeter-certified since 2022, with horses in place of tractors since 2014; Tim Atkin MW named David Winemaker of the Year in 2020. Phincas Thousand Mils is the estate village white, from old, low-yielding, dry-farmed bush vines on the rocky limestone slopes above Elvillar, hand-picked and horse-ploughed. The grapes were destemmed by hand and trodden by foot to start a natural fermentation, punched down gently each day, then pressed and aged 36 months in 225-litre French barriques. Strict selection in the mildew-threatened 2020 season kept volumes low but gave balance, fresh acidity and good colour. The wine may throw a deposit.
Food and drinking
Good with roast chicken, grilled hake, jamón and aged Manchego. Drinking well now and will develop for eight to ten years. Serve at 10–12°C. Certified organic and biodynamic; suitable for vegetarians and vegans.